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If you stand in the Piazza del Duomo and look up at the southern flank of the
cathedral, you will see an elegant marble cornice surmounted by a balustrade.
Behind this balustrade is a walkway, not open to the public, that completely
encircles the building. It is here that our tour begins.
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Looking the other way along this walkway we see the bell tower or Campanile,
designed by Giotto (1266-1337), continued by Andrea Pisano (1290-1349), and
completed by Francesco Talenti (1325-1369). To the right of the walkway is the
roof of the south aisle of the cathedral and the wall of the nave.
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Walking west along the walkway, we soon come to the Campanile. At this point
the class stops to hear Professor Verdon (at center, wearing a beret) describe
the history of the building of the cathedral.
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Continuing to the west end of the nave and passing briefly along the main
facade, we pass through a narrow doorway and into the interior of the
cathedral. At this point we are about 30 meters above the ground, just below
the springing of the vaults. The ceiling of the nave, designed by Arnolfo di
Cambio (1245-1302) and enlarged by Francesco Talenti, consists of four gigantic
bays roughly square in shape and measuring 18 meters from pier to pier. Each
bay is spanned by a groin vault, the largest constructed in medieval Europe.
We will soon see these vaults again from above. A balcony can be seen running
around the nave at this level. We walk a complete circuit on this balcony.
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After returning to the west end of the cathedral, we climb another set of
stairs and enter the attic above the nave. The massive beams in the
foreground, which support the tile roof above, are original. This makes them
over 600 years old. Behind the class is the back of the main facade of the
church.
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Turning around, we see what is undoubtedly the highlight of the tour - a line
of massive humps, one for each of the tremendous groin vaults that span the
nave. The masonry of these vaults, consisting of brickwork covered by a layer
of mortar, is more than a meter thick.
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The obscurity of the attic is broken here and there by small windows. These
openings provide ventilation for the structure and allow the wind, which can be
terrific at this height, to pass at least partially unopposed through the
walls.
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Walking gingerly across the vaults, which are dusty and slippery, we come to
the eastern end of the nave. The vaulting above this bay is reinforced by
ribbing, visible in front of the class. This ribbing helps resist the lateral
forces exerted by the immense dome, which lies just behind the wall at left.
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As a final flourish, Professor Verdon takes us to the top of the main facade,
which falls away almost 50 meters to the ground on the left side of this
small balcony.
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Looking down from this height we see the Baptistry with its famous doors by
Lorenzo Ghiberti (1378-1455), here being admired by crowds of tourists on a
brisk October day.
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Looking back across our shoulder, we catch a final glimpse of the roof of the
nave whose attic we were just inside. Looming in the background is the
magnificent dome and lantern by Filippo Brunelleschi (1377-1446). The dome
will be the topic of a later class.
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